Hype Means Everything

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Tag "suit"

I’ve been witnessing with great attention the rise of a new menswear giant… Ah Berluti. I used to dream about walking in a pair of Massimo wholecut and wear an Arnys suit. Now, I just have to pray for a Berluti coat. Damn those oversized ca(ra)mel pieces are turning me on. I need to keep calm and watch the show again.

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cooltailoring-sodandy-perou

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Over the past few months, we’ve seen some blogger friends come out with impressing “real life” and self-starting motivations. Among them, I can quote here Justin Fitzpatrick from The Shoe Snob who just launched his own footwear line. Using their relentless passion for tailoring and their crazy attention to detail, our friends at SoDandy just designed their own suit with the help of Parisian tailor Faubourg Saint Sulpice. I have to say I believe they did something really smart here: suit is made-to-measure, they picked the custom details themselves (a rich blue, two-pleats trousers with cuffs, no fancy coutures, no skinny cut but slim ankles), kept a very reasonable price (499 for the two-piece, 675 for the three-piece)… I think they managed to create a comfortable suit that you can use both on weekdays AND weeknights!

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attolini-suit-single-breasted-5

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If this isn’t a sign from God himself that I need to fly to Napoli to finally get myself a proper suit, I don’t what what it is. That piece of grey wool from Cesare Attolini Napoli goes straight to my heart. Single breasted, 3 button flap pockets, double-vented, the sweetest lapel on earth… My heart just stopped…

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Made-to-measure clothing has numerous advantages that you already know about. Unfortunately, made-to-measure always comes at a price tag that deters most of you from even considering it. After more than a month strolling around the streets of Paris to present you the best Parisian Tailors, I’ve come to a point where I felt like there was a real gap between the ready-to-wear clothing and the bespoke/made-to-measure options. Guillame Rousseau created The French Tailor not so long ago but understood something had to be done with a more accessible tailoring concept. The French Tailor is now proposing made-to-measure shirts, suits and coats at the very price of ready-to-wear. Interesting right ? I guess you wonder how it is possible ?! Well, the measurments and fittings are done in Paris by Guillaume Rousseau himself and the confection is made in Shangai. Not a fancy Italian atelier nor an on-the-verge-of-vanishing French workshop. So how’s the quality ? That’s what I wanted to check by myself so I got a dress shirt made and well, it is difficult to spot any misconception, even for an educated eye…  

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Another Parisian tailor ? Well, yes ! I guess there are more quality tailors in Paris than you thought huh ? Michaël Ohnona is one of the most respected guys in the business here in France : each and every tailor I’ve been to in the last couple of months praised his work and role in the Parisian tailoring community so I went to see the man in person. Michaël Ohnona is a man who speaks frankly and transparently. In his museum shop near the Opera Garnier, he thaught me why braces should be reimbursed by the social security and why you should wear more tweed. In 15 years of tailoring, he’s seen it all and has a very comforting confidence. He won’t let you make any mistake and will rather guide you through the 3 different fittings to make sure the suit fits you properly.

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Beppe Modenese really became a leader in fashion shows organization and PR when he started working for American cosmetic giant Estee Lauder in 1960 and after for Coco Chanel cosmetics. He created and organized “Moda Parma” and has since benn PR for many press offices and fashion events in Italy. He created many other important fashion shows. From 1985 to 1990, he was a consultant for Rinascente, member of the Presidential team at the Milan Fair and qualified as an ainternational judge for the Fashion Foundation of Tokyo. In 1986, he designed a collection of jewelry for Faraone, Milan. Artistic director PR for the five star hotel chain Four Season, Bugatti, the Girombelli Group, Etro, and Aneta…  During all these decades, he transformed into an undisputed style icon of the classic Italian sprezzatura. Elegance of a pinstripe suit, attitude of the double-breasted, rigorism of the single monk, formality of the tie pin… He masters it all !

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De Fursac kindly invited us to Biella, Italy last week to visit the Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti with whom they have a close relationship since the meeting of two industry stars : Edmond Cohen and Nino Cerruti. As we presented you yesterday a factory tour of the Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti, we want to share with you our personal impressions through a look at the Lanificio Cerruti archives and explain how to buy a fine quality suit with the example of De Fursac.

As part of their partnership with De Fursac, the Cerruti textile mills have for the first time developed fabrics of exceptional quality (Super 130, Super 150 and Turbo 180) exclusively for one brand, providing De Fursac with some of the most exquisite fabrics in the world. Just to give you an idea, Lanificio Cerruti has been creating fabrics for the likes of Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior… so you’d guess it’s a good point for De Fursac to source there.

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Drink Patrick Johnson‘s words without moderation. A lesson about suiting for you guys!

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No need to invest on a good quality suit if you don’t take care of it after your purchase. As well as you always have to put wood shoe trees in your shoes, your suits deserve proper hangers. The Hanger Project is one of those projects I happily invest in. Their luxury wooden hangers will keep your suits looking sharp and shapely. The maple wood used in each hanger is shaped in such a way as to evoke the natural slope of man’s shoulders. The addition of a felted trouser bar keeps your trousers in a fine crease so the pleats remain damn straight. Besides, the hangers look so beautiful, this is one purchase you feel good about. It really is a nice gift too ! Think about it ladies… Available from The Hanger Project.

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I was in London last week and I was so impressed by the way the guys were suited that I decided I’d take a look at Hackett’s latest drops for it is a reknown british house with a strong british identity. The suits themselves are great. Superb wool quality, very nice clim cut, awesome patterns etc… But I’m pretty intrigued with this lookbook for the upcoming SS 2012 collection. I feel like it’s very american in some ways and somehow outdated too. I mean fairisle ? Shawl collar cardigans ? Fortunately though, I digg the visible ankles, the white pants, the tassel loafers and the bucks. And the suits. What do you think ?

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