Another Parisian tailor ? Well, yes ! I guess there are more quality tailors in Paris than you thought huh ? Michaël Ohnona is one of the most respected guys in the business here in France : each and every tailor I’ve been to in the last couple of months praised his work and role in the Parisian tailoring community so I went to see the man in person. Michaël Ohnona is a man who speaks frankly and transparently. In his museum shop near the Opera Garnier, he thaught me why braces should be reimbursed by the social security and why you should wear more tweed. In 15 years of tailoring, he’s seen it all and has a very comforting confidence. He won’t let you make any mistake and will rather guide you through the 3 different fittings to make sure the suit fits you properly.
On the right, a hand-sewn jacket upper. Irregular, softer, more flexible than the more regular machine-sewn part on the left. What the machine gains in time (therefore in price) is lost in comfort.
So who are Michaël Ohnona’s clients ? The urban guy forced to wear a suit and whose high purchasing power is too often wasted on branded ready-to-wear ? The nostalgic guy who wants the Great Gatsby’s 3 piece stripped suit to look fresh at the Ritz ? The guy who wants to make a once-in-a-life-time effort and wear a smoking to his wedding ? The 2 meter-high skinny guy who can’t find anything in ready-ro-wear ? The guy who doesn’t go out until he can read the time in his shoes’ patinas ? Any of them !
Ohnona’s offering is the so-called “petite mesure” bespoke in a semi-traditional construction. This means that you get patterned from scratch and that the second fitting will be the crucial moment of the suit’s shape because you’ll decide whatever alteration you want. Semi-traditional means that the jacket is only partly fused (thermocollée) and partly canvassed (entoilée). The collar and lapels, the most visibly aging parts of the jacket are obviously canvassed to get the best possible quality and durabuility. The creation is made mostly in the factory but all the finitions are made in the very shop.
The pricing starts from 900 euros for a two-piece suit but depends of the fabric chosen. Among the many cloth merchants to chose from, I remember Dormeuil, Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Schofield, Loro Piana and Zegna. That would be around 4000 different fabrics.
Many thanks to Michaël Ohnona for his time and tailoring lesson ! I suggest you pay him a visit and maybe start with a visit on his very funny and instructive website Pour hommes extraordinaires.
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